11/4/14

Prophet, Seer, and Revelator, Thomas S. Monson, and his Important message to us!


Are We Prepared?





In the vicinity where I once lived and served, the Church operated a poultry project, staffed primarily by volunteers from the local wards. Most of the time it was an efficiently operated project, supplying to the bishops’ storehouse thousands of fresh eggs and hundreds of pounds of dressed poultry. On a few occasions, however, being volunteer city farmers meant not only blisters on the hands but also frustration of heart and mind.
For instance, I shall ever remember the time we gathered the Aaronic Priesthood young men to give the project a spring-cleaning. Our enthusiastic and energetic throng assembled at the project and in a speedy fashion uprooted, gathered, and burned large quantities of weeds and debris. By the light of the glowing bonfires, we ate hot dogs and congratulated ourselves on a job well done.
However, there was just one disastrous problem. The noise and the fires so disturbed the fragile population of 5,000 laying hens that most of them went into a sudden molt and ceased laying. Thereafter we tolerated a few weeds so that we might produce more eggs.
No member of the Church who has helped provide for those in need ever forgets or regrets the experience. Industry, thrift, self-reliance, and sharing with others are not new to us.
We should remember that the best storehouse system would be for every family in the Church to have a supply of food, clothing, and, where possible, other necessities of life.
Of course there may be times when our members are in need of help from the Church. The Lord’s storehouse includes the time, talents, skills, compassion, consecrated material, and financial means of faithful Church members. These resources are available to the bishop in assisting those in need.
We urge all Latter-day Saints to be prudent in their planning, to be conservative in their living, and to avoid excessive or unnecessary debt. Many more people could ride out the storm-tossed waves in their economic lives if they had a supply of food and clothing and were debt-free. Today we find that many have followed this counsel in reverse: they have a supply of debt and are food-free.
I repeat what the First Presidency declared a few years ago:
“Latter-day Saints have been counseled for many years to prepare for adversity by having a little money set aside. Doing so adds immeasurably to security and well-being. Every family has a responsibility to provide for its own needs to the extent possible.
“We encourage you wherever you may live in the world to prepare for adversity by looking to the condition of your finances. We urge you to be modest in your expenditures; discipline yourselves in your purchases to avoid debt. Pay off debt as quickly as you can, and free yourselves from this bondage. Save a little money regularly to gradually build a financial reserve.”1
Are we prepared for the emergencies in our lives? Are our skills perfected? Do we live providently? Do we have our reserve supply on hand? Are we obedient to the commandments of God? Are we responsive to the teachings of prophets? Are we prepared to give of our substance to the poor, the needy? Are we square with the Lord?
We live in turbulent times. Often the future is unknown; therefore, it behooves us to prepare for uncertainties. When the time for decision arrives, the time for preparation is past.
 
family in kitchen

 

*I loved reading this article in the September 2014 issue of the Ensign (can be found at LDS.org)
I felt good and validated in my feelings to be prepared in all things. But it also made me think A LOT about how prepared I really am....
Am I prepared for the emergencies my life? Are my skills perfected?  Does my husband and I live providently? Do we have enough reserve supply on hand? Are we obedient to the commandments of God? Are we responsive to the teachings of prophets? Are we prepared to give of our substance to the poor, the needy? Are we square with the Lord?

We need to get all things in order now more than ever before. We need to put in place the things that will insure safety and peace in both temporal and spiritual ways for us and our children. 

***

This morning I found a website that I absolutely loved.  Not only does it have lists and lists of every needed temporal thing, but it has websites and information on where to go to learn the skills needed to be totally self -reliant.  I really want to learn and perfect skills that I don't have yet, like cooking without electricity, and like learning more first-aid skills.

*Do you have feelings inside, or thoughts in your head about learning new skills that can help you in emergency situation?   Listen to your feelings. Listen to those thoughts. They are there for a reason.  And someday you will be so glad you followed those promptings!

Here is the site. Have fun. And I learn a lot!

http://www.happypreppers.com/home.html

Copy and save this site. Then go back and back again to learn how to prepare yourself in every way!
On the home page it firsts lists reasons why it's not being "'crazy" to be prepared in all things.  I'm going repost the whole thing here.... because it's AWESOME!

25 Reasons to Prep *Reasons why Preppers are not crazy!Preppers prep to “live happily ever after” and yet prepping causes many people to
think they’re insane “Doomsday Hoarders.”  You’re not crazy for prepping! Need a list
for reassurance? Here are the top reasons preppers prep (and why they’re not crazy)...

Twenty Five Reasons Preppers Are Not Crazy

Reason #1. Ebola.Indeed fear is a motivator (and no one is immune). The fear of pandemics, including
Ebola in particular, spurred sales in
personal protective equipment, such as gas masks
N95 respirators, nitrile gloves, Tyvec Chemical suits and bleach. No one wants to be
caught without the survival tools they need.

Reason #2: Hurricanes Katrina and Sandy.
"Hurricanes are the most destructive natural weather occurrences on Earth," according
to
hurricane-facts.com.  Preppers have learned from the past how unprepared the
masses are for the inevitable, because a hurricane
will strike again!
Reason #3. Fukushima.
The problem at the Fukushima  has not gone away after the March 11, 2011
earthquake, subsequent tsunami and the resulting Fukushima nuclear power plant
disaster. Worldwide contamination of our food supply as a result of
Fukushima is
something not often talked about. Certainly, preppers have not forgotten Fukushima!
Radioactive elements are being released into the sea and air, recorded as far away as
California, Utah, Oregon and Washington State. Fukushima affects not only the fish
and seaweed products, but the crops on the West Coast supplying the entire nation.
Livestock are affected as well as they eat the grass and cops affected by the air.
Currently,
Japan is building an ice wall to limit the contamination of waters in the Pacific
Ocean.  Americans living in Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California, the U.S. Atlantic,,
Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands are in Tsunami territory.

Reason #4: A nuclear reactor is in your midst.
Fukushima may hit closer to home than you may think if you live near a nuclear reactor.
Not sure how close you live to a nuclear facility? CNN has prepared the answer for you.
Just type in your ZIP code to
see how close you live to a nuclear power plant.
  • Do you have enough Iodine? Protect your thyroid gland against radiation with Thyrosafe. ThyroSafe, pictured right, is the only FDA-approved 65 mg. Potassium Iodide (KI) tablet. It's used to protect your thyroid gland against radioactive iodine released during a nuclear emergency. It does this by flooding the thyroid with stable, safe iodine, which blocks the absorption of dangerous radioactive iodine. Emergency government stock piles of potassium iodide are only available in limited supplies in Alabama, Arizona, Maine, and Tennessee. In NY and NJ some tablets have been handed out to residents closest to Nuclear power plants. Preppers take protective measures into their own hands with thyrosafe potassium iodide tablets.
Reason #5. The Great Depression.
John D. Rockefeller once said, "Depressions have come and gone. Prosperity has
always returned and will again."  This is true, and remember that depressions will
come again! We are a bit overdue! Indeed, History has a habit of repeating itself. The
Great Depression was a worldwide economic downturn brought about by the stock
market crash of Oct. 29, 1929. That was bad enough, but the problem of the dust bowl
made the situation worse. The dust bowl caused by drought in the 1930s displaced
the people of Oklahoma, most of whom closed their family farms. It didn't just affect
farmers in Oklahoma. Farmers of the past were usually safe from a depression
because they could at least feed themselves, but by 1933 many farmers, like all
consumers of the time, were severely into debt and couldn't afford  to harvest their
crops.  What caused the Great Depression? What can you do about it? Plenty!

Reason #6. The Big One is coming: (earthquakes)!
Seismic zones are everywhere however, in the West Coast we often think of the 1906
Earthquake and know the “big one” is coming; while preppers who are “awake” in the
Eastern United States think of the 1811-12 New Madrid Earthquake, which will be
coming again soon as well. Want to know more about the New Madrid Earthquake?

Missouri is preparing for the big one!
Reason #7: Other Pandemic threat.
Swine Flu was tame compared to the threat of Ebola. Then there are current cases of
the Plague, along with West Nile virus, Avian Bird Flu and Spanish Flu, among countless
other pandemic situations.

Reason #8: Solar flares and EMP.
The solar storm of 1859 was a geomagnetic storm first observed by Richard C.
Carrington. His namesake has given rise to the Carrington Effect, a term coined by
Lloyds of London, who
delivered the sobering news to the insurance industry that this
kind of an event happens every 150 years or so and the cost would be an enormous
$2.6 Trillion in financial impact on the world. Threat of an EMP is also a man-made
catastrophe as it would take only a nuclear detonation in the atmosphere to annihilate
a regions supply of water, electricity and gas, and thereby send a country back to the
dark ages.  Whether a natural disaster or a man made one, there's always something
you can do.  You do not have a "crazy doomsday philosophy" because you want to
prepare for an EMP.

Reason #9: Cyber Attack and Terrorism.  
Today, Americans are more dependent than ever before on the electronic flow of
information. As a result we are more vulnerable than ever not to individual cyber crime
and as a country to cyber warfare and cyber terrorism. According to the book Cyber
Attack, written by a former hacker, Paul Day, "In times of economic crisis, cybercrime is
a growth industry." The "digital mafia" seeks monetary gain from you and it's easy not
to get caught! It's possible that the next great Depression will be from a coordinated
attack on the stock market, ATMS and banking systems and electronics to lock ordinary
citizens away from their money, and that's just the initial stock. A cyber attack
threatens our water, electricity and gas. You need a plan! A good book is Game Plan,
pictured at the top right hand of the page, by Kevin D. Freeman. Game Plan is the first
"how to" investment handbook of its type. It will explain the emerging risks and
provide a complete game plan of response for investors at all levels.

Reason #10. Death or major illness or injury of a family member.
The natural disaster that hits closest to home for a prepper is the death of a family
member or breadwinner. Having adequate life insurance provides only half the answer.
A breadwinner may also be the firearms expert or perhaps the food preserving expert.
When you loose a family member, you also loose
prepping skills, a vital link in your
survival chain. Like they say, nothing is more certain than death and taxes. And
someone in your family who suffers from a major illness or injury can provide a burden
on the family finances, which is why it's so important to plan for the best of times, even
in your darkest hour.


Reason #11. Terrorist Attacks (threats to Homeland Security).
The threat of Biochemical war has been looming since Agent Orange (an herbicide and
defoliant used during the Vietnam War from 1961-1971).  America has been on high
alert since 9-11, and preppers can take a measure of control. The next attack could be
financial or crippling of our resources for gas or electricity. Since anything is possible,
preppers are ready for what is possible.


Reason #12: Cold war (Atomic Preparedness).
People have forgotten how close we were in the 1950s to a nuclear war. In the atomic
age, it was quite standard to have a fallout shelter. In fact, it was your patriotic duty
to stash supplies and consider building a shelter. Schools routinely practiced what to
do in the event of a strike (not that the old duck and cover would have had much
protection against nuclear annihilation, but at least they had a plan and encouraged
it). If people weren't considered crazy then, why are they considered crazy today?


Reason #13:  Power outages.
In Winter, power outages are fairly common, but even a high gust of wind can knock
out the power. Preppers will have enough heat, light, food and water even in ordinary
power outages. Food safety is another concern as a result of power outages.

Reason #14: Floods.
According to FEMA, floods are the #1 disaster in the United States, and everyone lives
in a flood zone. In the past 5 years, all 50 states have experienced floods or flash
floods. Homeowners insurance does not cover flood. It requires a special insurance.

Reason #15. Tornadoes.
Tornadoes often develop quickly and without warning. A tornado watch means that
tornadoes are possible, while a
tornado warning means that a tornado has been
sighted by weather radar.

Reason #16: Inclement weather.
Snow storms, thunderstorms (even monsoons in Arizona), inclement weather happens
and there's no shame in preparing for it.

Reason #17: Landslides
.Landslides happen because of heavy rainstorms, but also because of earthquakes,
volcanic eruptions, fire and even man's modification of the terrain. To prevent
landslides, avoid building your homestead near steep slopes or the mountain's edge.
Your homestead should also steer clear of natural drainage pathways and areas
known to erode. Planting proper ground covering can help minimize the threat.

Reason #18: Wildfires.
Wildfires can ruin your local economy if not your own home! The raging California
Wildfires of the Summer of 2014 is another devastating hit for a state already
inundated with the expense of illegal immigrants amidst concerns of drought. Learn
more about
preparedness for fire.
Reason #19. The Amero
Word of the Amero surfaced around 2007. If you haven't yet heard of the Amero,
now's the time to delve into the threat of the new currency introduced by the
formation of the North American Union.

Reason #20. Monsanto (poisoning of the food supply).
Monsanto threatens control of the world's food supply. As Kissinger said, "He who
controls the food, controls the world." Preppers avoid soy and corn products most of
all. They also buy and save heirloom seeds for the future.

Reason #21. Unemployment and Job Loss.
Stashing away food and provisions is a good way to prepare for a rainy day. Your
preparations will help compensate for the lean times of unemployment.

Reason #22. National debt and hyper inflation.

Reason #23. Everyday violence.
Things are crazy now as it is: do you want to wait for the grocery stores to be empty?
Does the name Rodney King ring a bell?

Reason #24. Your Great grandparents were preppers.
Back in the day, everyone was a prepper. People canned food and set aside provisions
to last the Winter. Victory gardens were patriotic (and even encouraged by the
government to support the war effort). Thankfully the idea of prepping and
survival gardening is making a comeback. Prepping is in your ancestral blood. Your ancestors
weren't crazy. They were prepared!


Reason #25. The government is prepping.
Whether or not you want to believe it, politicians are all on the same side. It doesn’t
matter who is in office.
Enough said!

So there you have it – you’re not a crazy misfit or freak. You're not an eccentric
screwball, crackpot or geek. You're not a fruitcake, nut-cake, odd bird, strange bird  or
buffoon. The real weirdos are the
Sheeple (the ones not prepping because they
believe in the grocery fairy)! No, that's not you. You're not the crazy one.

More Reasons Preppers Aren’t Crazy
Aside from the reasons above, prepping makes life more convenient.
Here are the everyday conveniences of prepping:
1. Never run out of toilet paper again!
You’ll also never run out of pasta sauce, bandages, milk, eggs, butter, and ammunition
again. Be it snow, rain or the midnight hour, you’ve got what you need.


2. Tonight’s dinner.
Not sure what’s for dinner? Don’t feel like heading to the grocery store? Tonight’s
dinner is as easy as looking in the prepper’s pantry for a homemade dehydrated meal
in a jar, home canned stew, freeze dried taste test, or eating up an almost expired
MRE. Whether headed to the pantry or the garden for your salad ingredients, preppers
always have something good to eat.
Yes we can!

3. Peace of Mind for Personal Emergencies.
Whether it is shampoo or toothpaste, tampons or diapers you need, preppers have
enough stash to cover their personal emergencies for months on end. Someone is sick
at home? You’ve got enough soup to feed an army. Have unexpected company? You
have the ingredients to whip up some delicious homemade cookies or bread. Prepping
is peace of mind for your personal emergency.


4. Save money.
Buying in bulk and stocking up on two for the price of one is among the many benefits
of being a prepper. Prepping certainly saves money. Want to save more?

 
Here are 99 ways to spend a buck prepping at the Dollar Stores.

 - See more at: http://www.happypreppers.com/25-reasons.html#sthash.IKf69OHu.dpuf

1/19/14

Good Storing Tips - for Mason Jars and Mylar Bags

By Kellene Bishop
waste-food-storage-moneyThere’s nothing sadder to me than when I see someone who’s finally started taking steps to build up their food storage, only to hear that they’ve wasted tons of money by having to throw food out.  I see folks buy foods regularly without being mindful of the best way to store it.  More unfortunate is that folks are throwing away perfectly good grains when there’s no need to.  The good news is that you don’t have to waste your food storage money this way.  I’m going to show you how to maximize every precious buck!  This article is to help you understand how NOT to waste all of that hard work and food storage money.
Two things to keep in mind when storing food:
1) Environmental storing conditions
2) Storage containers.
When it comes to the ideal storing conditions, you always want to store your dry foods in a cool, dry place.  When I purchase MRE’s, I always request certifications or attestations of HOW they were stored prior to shipping them to me.  That’s a heck of a lot more important to me than when they were manufactured.  A cool, dry environment is your ideal storage condition.
When you’re buying foods, remember plastic is porous.  Aluminum and Mylar are much better, but well-sealed glass containers are ideal.  The sooner you can transfer things from a cheap paper box or plastic bag into a Mylar bag, a #10 can, or a Mason jar, the better and the significantly longer shelf life you’ll enjoy.  In fact, the shelf life of foods stored in this way usually last 3 to 6 times longer than your original expiration food information!  (See, we’re keeping up with the rate of inflation already.)
foodsaver-jar-sealerDon’t be afraid to buy chocolate chips, candy bars, or almonds on sale.  You don’t need to eat them all right away.  Simply store them in a vacuum packed Mason jar.  A Foodsaver comes with a jar attachment that you simply put on top of your partially lidded jar, suck the air out, and then put on the ring.  It’s that easy.  (See Foodsaver operation instructions for more details.)
If you have something finely powdered such as cocoa, cornmeal, or Kool-aid, put it in a bag first, squeeze out the air, and then put it in the jar.
With granola bars, candy bars and the like, simply poke a small pin prick in the wrapper, put them in the jar and seal them.  You can look forward to those peanut M&Ms for a few years down the road.
Think about all of the food items that this storing method will help you with!
  • Raisins
  • Chocolate Chips
  • Nuts (all kinds)
  • Volatile grains
  • Candy bars
  • Dried fruits (dehydrated or freeze-dried)
  • Bacon bits (real or artificial)
  • Parmesan cheese
  • Cereals (warm or cold)
  • Pasta
  • Rice
  • Beans
  • Soup mixes
  • Spices
  • Dried herbs
  • Beef Jerky
  • Cookies
  • Malt-O-Meal
Now you can go CRAZY being sure to have the foods on hand that you actually LOVE.  You don’t have to waste your food storage money!  Woohoo!
The possibilities are literally endless!  The best part about this method is you can keep doing this so long as you have electricity.  Once you open a jar, you can simply reseal it as long as the lid hasn’t been damaged during the opening process.  You can extend the life of the foods that you’re living on every day.  It only takes a few second per jar to seal—the time is SO worth it!
Note: This method is NOT good for items that need to be refrigerated as a pressure canning process is typically needed to preserve such items.
Do you see weevils or critters in your dry foods?  Don’t worry about it.  Simply place that wheat, oats, rice, etc. on a small cookie sheet in your solar oven for an hour at 200 degrees, then sift through it, and your dried foods will still be just fine and nutritious without the unpleasant hitchhikers. 
I hear of way too many people throwing out their brown rice, complaining that it goes bad too fast.  Can I just say “stop that”?  You can store brown rice for years in a sealed Mason jar.  Oats sealed in a #10 can should keep their shelf-life for 10 years if stored under ideal circumstances.
If a product is stored in a dent-free, sealed #10 can, it should have a long shelf life of years!  If it’s a more volatile food, put it in a sealed Mylar bag with an oxygen absorber or a Mason jar and then rest easy for a long shelf-life. 
Speaking of oxygen absorbers, did you know that bay leaves also act as a great oxygen absorber?  All you have to do is put a couple of bay leaves in your quart jars, or about 5 of them in a #10 can, and voila!  You’ve got an inexpensive oxygen absorber that you can EASILY grow right in your own yard. 
mylar-bagA Mylar bag sealer with Mylar bags can be obtained for about $200 dollars.  It’s great for my more finely powdered items such as cornmeal, risotto, and coconut.  You can use a flat iron in a pinch to seal a Mylar bag, but it’s not as reliable for putting suitable pressure and heat on the bag.  So double check your bag if you’re using this method.
Remember, sugar is sugar no matter how old it is.  It simply doesn’t go bad.  You don’t have to worry about whether to store it in a 5 gallon bucket or a bag.  But if you store it in a bucket, you can put in a “brown sugar bear” in with it (easily purchased at any cooking store) and it will keep its fine consistency. 
Yeast has a shelf life of about 1 year on your shelf.  But if you keep it in your freezer, it has an INFINITE shelf-life.  I’ve been using my yeast for my bread right out of the freezer every time I make it.
If you open a can of food and it seems to have taken on the smell of the can, don’t worry.  You STILL don’t have to waste your food storage money by throwing it out.  All it usually needs is a little bit of aerating.  Just set it out in an open container and let it air out.  It can take a couple of days or a couple of hours.  A little bit of oxygen goes a long ways!
While your shortening that comes already sealed in a can will last 3 years as is, you can also can it by melting it and then sealing it.  You’ve now got a 5 to 10 year shelf life!  The same goes for butter!  You don’t have to ever be without REAL butter! (There’s been a great deal of controversy about bottling butter, but I’m finally willing to come out and say that it’s JUST FINE AND DANDY to do!)
In the future, think twice about throwing food out or storing it “as is” from the manufacturer.  Now you don’t have to waste your food storage money.   
For additional information on perishable foods, check out “Yes, You Can Easily Can Meat”.
Copyright 2009 Preparedness Pro & Kellene Bishop.  All rights reserved.  You are welcome to repost this information so long as it is credited to Preparedness Pro & Kellene Bishop.
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1/18/14

Turning Short-term storage into Long-term storage


As a follow-up to my blog post about which foods you shouldn’t plan on storing long-term, here’s a list of foods typically found at grocery stores that can be stored but must be repackaged.
Keep in mind, that by repackaging these foods you will also be protecting them from oxygen, pests, and humidity, three of the five enemies of food storage. (The other 2 are heat and light.)
  • Raisins and other dried fruit
  • Oatmeal
  • Breakfast cereals
  • Any type of cookie or cracker
  • Beans
  • Rice
  • Pasta
  • Bread crumbs
  • Cornmeal
  • Candy
  • Pancake mix (Sometimes these are packaged directly inside the cardboard box without any type of inner plastic bag.)
  • Pasta, rice, and potato convenience mixes, such as Rice-a-Roni, Pasta-Roni, instant potatoes, scalloped potato mixes, etc. (These may either have microscopic insect eggs inside the package already and/or be invaded by insects and rodents from the outside.)
  • Tea bags (Repackage for best flavor and longest possible shelf life.)
  • Dried, instant milk (If not already in a sealed can.)
  • Spices and herbs packaged in plastic bags
  • Shortening
  • Chocolate chips, baking chips of any flavor
  • Nuts
  • Popcorn
  • Pretzels
  • Sugar, brown sugar and powdered sugar
  • Any type of mix to make bread, cornbread, pizza dough, etc.
  • Most anything else that is packaged in flimsy plastic bags and/or cardboard. This type of packaging is not intended for long-term storage, but that doesn’t mean the food inside can’t have a longer shelf life if repackaged correctly.

Repackaging instructions

Most everything on this list will do very well packaged by any of these procedures:
1.  A vacuum packing machine, such as the Food Saver. These can be found on eBay and Craigslist at very affordable prices. Walmart, Target, and Cabela’s carry them as well.
Pour the food into one of the plastic bags suitable for your machine and follow the machine’s instructions for vacuum sealing the bag. Use a Sharpie to mark the date sealed on the outside as well as the name of the food. (“Golden raisins, June 21, 2013″)
If a food can be easily crushed, such as cookies or crackers, place them in a large canning jar and seal it with your machine and a jar lid attachment. This is very convenient and gives long term results. If you want to store shortening, pack it into a canning jar, place the lid on top, cover with the jar sealer and seal it.
This video shows how to seal foods in canning jars.

Some foods with sharp edges, such as pasta, can wear through the plastic storage bag. To avoid this you can seal the food and then place it in a second sealing bag and seal a second time or place it first in a zip-loc bag (do not seal) and then into the food storage bag. The machine will suck the air out of both bags, sealing them shut at the same time.
2.  Use oxygen absorbers. Pour your food into a canning jar, mylar bag (available on Amazon) or a food-safe bucket of an appropriate size. Just before sealing with the lid, drop in oxygen absorbers according to this chart:
100 cc absorber            32-ounce canning jar
300 cc                             #10 can
300 cc                              1 gallon container
1500 cc                            5 gallon container
For more detailed  instructions, read this.
I also use empty and sanitized 2-liter soda bottles for things like rice and oats and add a 100 cc absorber just before capping the bottle.
Keep  mind that as you open the package of absorbers, they start absorbing oxygen. You’ll know this is happening because they get hot. Quickly place the required number of absorbers in each container with the food and then store the remaining absorbers in a canning jar. (The lid of a canning jar gives a much tighter seal than other jars.)
3.  Dry pack canning. This is simpler than water bath or pressure canning and since you’ll be canning dry foods only, it’s just a matter of filling canning jars, heating them in a low-temperature oven (200 degrees), and then sealing with a jar lid and ring. The heat kills vermin eggs and the tight lid will keep out any extra oxygen. However, adding an oxygen absorber will help food from oxidizing over time, thus extending the shelf life.
By the way, if you place filled canning jars and vacuum sealed bags in a plastic bin or bucket and then cover with a lid, you’ll be protecting the food from light as well as oxygen, pests, and humidity.
Taking these extra steps is worth it because of the money you’re spending on food and the fact that you’re storing this for long-term. When you actually really need to start using it, you want it to taste fresh and be as nutritious as possible.


© 2013, The Survival Mom. All rights reserved.

10/4/13

First Aid Kits.

 
 I'm trying to put together some first aid kits. So I'm cutting and pasting some different ones that I've found to give me some idea.  Here is a basic one that I can start with:
 




Product: First Aid Essentials
Quantity: 1 Bag First Aid Kit (299 Pieces)
 

Be ready for all potential emergencies at home, in the car, outdoors or on the water. First Aid Only, offers this 299pc. all-purpose softsided first aid kit, developed to save time and frustration in the midst of emergency situations. 

299 Pieces Kit includes: 

Medicine, Antiseptics
  • 6 - Ibuprofen tablets
  • 6 - Extra-strength non-aspirin tablets
  • 6 - Aspirin tablets
  • 3 - Insect sting relief pads
  • 6 - Antibiotic ointment packs
  • 14 - Alcohol cleansing pads
  • 15 - Antiseptic cleansing wipes (sting free)
  • 2 - First aid/burn cream packs
  • 1 - Burn relief pack
Bandages
  • 75 - Plastic bandages, 3/4" x 3"
  • 20 - Fabric bandages, 3/4" x 3"
  • 30 - Plastic bandages, 1" x 3"
  • 10 - Fabric bandages, 1" x 3"
  • 2 - Elbow & knee plastic bandages, 2" x 4"
  • 50 - Junior plastic bandages, 3/8" x 1 1/2"
  • 4 - Knuckle fabric bandages
  • 4 - Fingertip fabric bandages
  • 1 - Patch bandage, 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"
Dressings
  • 1 - Instant cold compress
  • 1 - Emergency blanket, 38" x 60"
  • 3 - Moleskin squares, 2" x 2" (blister prevention)
  • 3 - Butterfly wound closures
  • 2 - Finger splints, 6" x 3/4"
  • 2 - First aid tape rolls, 1/2" x 5 yd.
Injury Treatment
  • 1 - Trauma pad, 5" x 9"
  • 1 - Sterile eye pad
  • 6 - Gauze dressing pads, 2" x 2"
  • 4 - Gauze dressing pads, 3" x 3"
  • 2 - Gauze dressing pads, 4" x 4"
  • 1 - Conforming gauze roll bandage, 2"
References, Instruments
  • 1 - American Medical Association First Aid Guide
  • 1 - Thermometer, one time use
  • 2 - Latex-free exam quality vinyl gloves
  • 1 - Scissors
  • 1 - Tweezers, plastic
  • 10 - Cotton-tipped applicators, 3"
  • 1 - Durable clear-pocket softpack.

1/26/13

Fear Not, I Am With Thee

11/1/12

Quotes and Addresses from Church Leaders

Quotes and Addresses from Church Leaders


Lay Up in Store,” Keith B. McMullin, Liahona, May 2007, 51–53

To Men of the Priesthood,” Gordon B. Hinckley, Liahona, Nov. 2002, 56

To the Boys and to the Men,” Gordon B. Hinckley, October 1998 general conference

Longer-Term Food Supply

food storage
For longer-term needs, and where permitted, gradually build a supply of food that will last a long time and that you can use to stay alive, such as wheat, white rice, and beans. These items can last 30 years or more when properly packaged and stored in a cool, dry place. A portion of these items may be rotated in your three-month supply.

Foods Lasting 30 Years or More

food storage
Properly packaged, low-moisture foods stored at room temperature or cooler (24°C/75°F or lower) remain nutritious and edible much longer than previously thought, according to findings of recent scientific studies. Estimated shelf life for many products has increased to 30 years or more (see chart below for new estimates of shelf life).
Previous estimates of longevity were based on “best-if-used-by” recommendations and experience. Though not studied, sugar, salt, baking soda (essential for soaking beans), and vitamin C in tablet form also store well long-term. Some basic foods do need more frequent rotation, such as vegetable oil every 1 to 2 years.
While there is a decline in nutritional quality and taste over time, depending on the original quality of food and how it was processed, packaged, and stored, the studies show that even after being stored long-term, the food will help sustain life in an emergency.
For tips on how to best preserve longer-term food storage products, see Longer-Term Food Supply.
FoodNew “Life-Sustaining” Shelf-Life Estimates (in Years)
Wheat30+
White rice30+
Corn30+
Sugar30+
Pinto beans30
Rolled oats30
Pasta30
Potato flakes30
Apple slices30
Non-fat powdered milk20
Dehydrated carrots20

Product Recommendations

The following suggested amounts are for one adult.
Quantity for One MonthRecommended ProductsLong-Term Storage Life
11.5 kg./ 25 lbsWheat, white rice, corn, and other grains30+ years
2.5 kg. / 5 lbsDry beans30+ years
You may also want to add other items to your longer-term storage such as sugar, nonfat dry milk, salt, baking soda, and cooking oil. To meet nutritional needs, also store foods containing vitamin C and other essential nutrients.

Packaging Recommendations

Recommended containers for longer-term storage include the following:

  • #10 cans (available in the U.S. and Canada at Church home storage centers)
  • Foil pouches (available through Church Distribution Services)
  • PETE bottles (for dry products such as wheat, corn, and beans)
These containers, used with oxygen absorber packets, eliminate food-borne insects and help preserve nutritional quality and taste. Oxygen absorber packets are available online at store.lds.org.
Under certain conditions, you can also use plastic buckets for longer-term storage of wheat, dry beans, and other dry products.
Warning: Botulism poisoning may result if moist products are stored in packaging that reduces oxygen. When stored in airtight containers with oxygen absorbers, products must be dry (about 10% or less moisture content).

Storage Conditions

Storage life can be significantly impacted by the following conditions:
  • Temperature: Store products at a temperature of 75°F/24°C or lower whenever possible. If storage temperatures are higher, rotate products as needed to maintain quality.
  • Moisture: Keep storage areas dry. It is best to keep containers off of the floor to allow for air circulation.
  • Light: Protect cooking oil and products stored in PETE bottles from light.
  • Insects and rodents: Protect products stored in foil pouches and PETE bottles from rodent and insect damage.

Dry Products for Longer-Term Food Storage

Products intended for longer-term storage must be dry (about 10% or less moisture content).
Warning: Botulism poisoning may result if moist products are stored in packaging that reduces oxygen.
Dry products that are not suitable for longer-term storage due to moisture content, oils, or other concerns include:
Barley, pearled Meat, dried (such as jerky)
Eggs, driedNuts
Flour, whole wheatRice, brown
Grains, milled (other than rolled oats)Sugar, brown
GranolaVegetables and fruits, dehydrated (unless dry enough, inside and out, to snap when bent)

PETE Bottles For Longer-Term Storage

Bottles made of PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) plastic can be used with oxygen absorbers to store products such as wheat, corn, and dry beans. PETE bottles are identified on the container with the letters PETE or PET under the recycle symbol.
Other types of plastic bottles typically do not provide an adequate moisture or oxygen barrier for use with oxygen absorbers. Do not use containers that were previously used to store nonfood items.
PETE bottles can also be used for shorter-term storage (up to 5 years) of other shelf-stable dry foods such as white rice.
Moisture content of stored foods should be about 10 percent or less. When moist products are stored in reduced oxygen packaging, botulism poisoning may occur.

Packaging in PETE Bottles

  1. Use PETE bottles that have screw-on lids with plastic or rubber lid seals. You can verify that the lid seal will not leak by placing a sealed empty bottle under water and pressing on it. If you see bubbles escape from the bottle, it will leak.
  2. Clean used bottles with dish soap, and rinse them thoroughly to remove any residue. Drain out the water, and allow the bottles to dry completely before you use them for packaging food products.
  3. Place an oxygen absorber in each bottle. The absorbers can be used with containers of up to one-gallon capacity (4 liters).
  4. Fill bottles with wheat, corn, or dry beans.
  5. Wipe top sealing edge of each bottle clean with a dry cloth and screw lid on tightly.
  6. Store the products in a cool, dry location, away from light.
  7. Protect the stored products from rodents.
  8. Use a new oxygen absorber each time you refill a bottle for storage.
Where to Get Oxygen Absorber Packets
Oxygen absorber packets are available at home storage centers and Church Distribution Services, or they can be ordered online at store.lds.org. Unused oxygen absorbers can be stored in glass jars with metal lids that have gaskets.

Oxygen Absorbers

Oxygen absorbers protect dry foods from insect damage and help preserve product quality. They are used when dry foods are packaged in sealed containers. Oxygen absorbers can be purchased from home storage centers and Church Distribution Services, or they can be ordered from store.lds.org.
What are oxygen absorbers made of?
Oxygen absorbers are small packets that contain an iron powder. The packets are made of a material that allows oxygen and moisture to enter but does not allow the iron powder to leak out.
How do oxygen absorbers work?
Moisture in the packaged food causes the iron in the oxygen absorber to rust. As it oxidizes, the iron absorbs oxygen. Oxygen absorbers rated for 300 cubic centimeters (cc) of oxygen work well for properly packaged dry food in containers of up to one-gallon capacity (4 liters).
Is the use of oxygen absorbers equivalent to vacuum packaging?
Oxygen absorbers remove oxygen more effectively than vacuum packaging. Air is about 20 percent oxygen and 80 percent nitrogen. Absorbers remove only the oxygen. The air left in the container is mostly nitrogen and will not affect the food or allow the growth of insects.
What types of products can be stored using oxygen absorbers?
Products should be low in moisture and oil content. If the moisture content is not low enough (about 10 percent or less), storing products in reduced oxygen packaging may result in botulism poisoning.
What types of containers can be used with oxygen absorbers for food storage?
Oxygen absorbers should be used with containers that provide an effective barrier against moisture and oxygen. The following containers work well:
  • Metal cans with seamed lids.
  • Foil pouches (such as those provided by Church home storage centers and available from store.lds.org).
  • PETE plastic bottles with airtight, screw-on lids.
  • Glass canning jars with metal lids that have gaskets.
Oxygen absorbers are not an effective treatment method for plastic buckets, milk bottles, or other types of plastic bottles not identified as PETE or PET under the recycle symbol (see right).
What is the proper way to use oxygen absorbers?
  1. Cut open the top of the bag of absorbers. Do not open the individual absorber packets.
  2. Remove the number of absorbers from the bag that you will use in the next 20 to 30 minutes, and spread them out on a tray. Remove additional groups of absorbers from the supply as you need them during the packaging process, but do not open and close the bag repeatedly to get only a few absorbers at a time.
  3. Reseal the remaining supply of absorbers by one of the following methods. Do not store absorbers in ziplock bags.
    • Seal the bag of absorbers with the special blue clamp provided by the home storage center.
    • Seal the bag of absorbers with an impulse heat sealer.
    • For longer storage when an impulse sealer is not available, remove the absorbers from the bag and place them into a glass canning jar that has a metal lid with a gasket. A one-pint jar (500 ml) will hold 25 absorbers.
  4. Place one absorber into each container of food as it is packaged.

Foil Pouches For Longer-Term Storage

What type of pouch is available at home storage centers, at Distribution Services, and online at store.lds.org?
The pouches are made of multilayer laminated plastic and aluminum. The material is 7 mils thick (178 microns) and protects food against moisture and insects.
What types of foods can be packaged in pouches?
The pouches can be used to store foods that are dry (about 10% moisture or less), shelf-stable, and low in oil content. Botulism poisoning may result if moist products are stored in oxygen reduced packaging.
How much food does each pouch hold?
Each pouch holds 1 gallon (4 liters) of product. The weight varies by product. A pouch holds 7 pounds (3.2 kg) of wheat, 6.8 pounds (3.1 kg) of white rice, or 5 pounds (2.3 kg) of dry milk.
Do foods react with the aluminum in the pouch?
No. Foods do not come in contact with the aluminum because they are separated from it by a layer of food-grade plastic. The metal barrier is important in protecting the food from moisture and oxygen.
What is the best way to seal pouches?
Pouches should be sealed using an impulse sealer (see related instructions). Do not use an iron or another household heating device because it will not provide an adequate seal, especially for powdered products such as flour or dry milk. The impulse sealers used by Welfare Services (American International Electric AIE 305 A1 and Mercier ME 305 A1) meet the following specifications: 3/16-inch (5 mm) wide seal, 11.5-inch (305 mm) wide jaws, rated for up to 8-mil (205 microns) thick pouches, and equipped with a safety switch to cancel operation if the jaw is obstructed.
Where can I find an impulse sealer?
Impulse sealers are available at most home storage centers. Many stakes also have impulse sealers available. If you prefer, you may purchase an impulse sealer from Distribution Services or online at store.lds.org.
Is it necessary to remove all the air from the pouches?
No. Oxygen absorbers remove the oxygen from the air in the pouches. The low oxygen content eliminates food-borne insects and helps preserve product quality.
Is it normal for the sides of the pouch to pull in once the pouch is sealed?
With most products, the sides of sealed pouches will pull in slightly within a few days of packaging. This is more noticeable with granular foods than with powdered products.
How should pouches of food be stored?
The pouches store best in a cool, dry, rodent-free area. Storage containers should not be in direct contact with concrete floors or walls.
Are pouches rodent proof?
Pouches are not rodent proof. If rodents or other pests are a significant potential problem in the storage area, the pouches should be placed into containers that are rodent or pest proof. Do not store them in containers that have been used to store nonfood items.
Should emergency kits be packaged in pouches?
Many emergency supply items are not suitable for packaging in foil pouches. First aid items and food rations, such as granola bars, are best stored in containers with removable lids to allow for frequent rotation.

Pouch Sealer Instructions

For Portable Operation of AIE (and ME) 305 A1 Sealers
Please read the entire sheet before starting.
Setting up
  1. Place the sealer on a sturdy surface about 5 inches (13 cm) above the table top. This will place the sealer jaw opening about 8½ inches (22 cm) above the table for the correct sealing position. Connect the foot switch to the back of the sealer, and place the foot switch on the floor. Plug in the power cord. Caution: Do not allow children in the area when the sealer is plugged in.
  2. Set Recycle dial to 2, Congealing dial to 6, Sealing dial to 4, and Action Selector switch to Manual. Open the bag containing oxygen absorbers. Remove the number of packets that you will use in the next 20–30 minutes. Reseal the bag with the impulse sealer.
  3. Open and reseal the bag as you need additional groups of absorbers.
Filling pouches
  1. Fill a pouch with one gallon (4 liters) of product. (Overfilling will result in a poor seal.) A two-quart (2-liter) pitcher, cut off at the two-quart (2-liter) line, is a good measure to use in when you are filling pouches. Fill with two level measures, tapped down.
  2. Place an oxygen absorber packet on top of the product in each pouch.
  3. For powdered products, wipe product dust from inside the seal area using a dry towel.
Sealing pouches
  1. Turn the Power switch on. (Do not allow small children in the area when the sealer is on.)
  2. Place the pouch in an upright position in front of the sealer. Rest its weight on the table or shelf; do not let it hang.
  3. Close the pouch by grasping the side seams and firmly pulling them outward. Fold the top 1½ inches of the pouch (30–40 mm) over at a right angle, and push down on the pouch to expel extra air from the package. Settle the product, and flatten the pouch opening. If the top will not flatten and fold over easily, check if the pouch is too full.
  4. Hold the pouch by the side seams, and insert the top edge of the pouch into the jaw opening. Keep fingers clear of the jaw.
  5. Position the pouch to seal it near the top. Stretch outward on the side seams to remove wrinkles. Press the foot switch to activate the sealer. Release hold on the pouch after the jaw closes. Remove the pouch when the cycle is finished.
  6. Label the pouch with contents and packaging date.
Testing seals
  1. Inspect the seams to ensure that they are adequate and without burned spots. The seam should resemble factory seams.
  2. Check to see if the seam can be pulled apart.
  3. Push on the pouch to see if air or product can be forced out.
  4. If seams pull apart, check for inadequate cleaning of seam area or for overfill. If necessary, increase sealing setting by ¼ step (for example, from 4 to 4.25). Verify that the congealing setting is at 6.
  5. If seams are burned, decrease the sealing setting by ¼ step.
Notes
  1. The sealer comes from the factory with two bolts protruding from the front of the machine. These bolts are for holding the shelf provided in the box. Remove the bolts, and do not use the shelf unless it is used as part of a separate stand.
  2. If the Teflon cover on the lower jaw is burned, unplug the sealer, loosen and lift up the cover, and carefully clean off any burrs that may be on the heat strip. Advance the cover approximately ½ inch (12 mm), trim excess, and retighten.
  3. If the sealer fails to operate, check the two fuses mounted in the lower back of the case. If necessary, replace them with fuses of the correct size.
  4. Dry foods that are packaged for long-term storage should be limited to those that best retain flavor and nutritional value. These foods should be low in moisture (approximately 10 percent or less), of good quality, and insect free. Avoid exposing dry foods to humid, damp conditions when packaging them. Warning: Products that are too high in moisture should not be stored in reduced oxygen packaging because botulism poisoning may result. Visit providentliving.org for specific product guidelines.

Plastic Buckets For Longer-Term Storage

Plastic buckets may be used to store food commodities that are dry (about 10 percent moisture or less) and low in oil content. Only buckets made of food-grade plastic with gaskets in the lid seals should be used. Buckets that have held nonfood items should not be used.
To prevent insect infestation, dry ice (frozen carbon dioxide) should be used to treat grains and dry beans stored in plastic buckets. Treatment methods that depend on the absence of oxygen to kill insects, such as oxygen absorbers or nitrogen gas flushing, are not effective in plastic buckets. Avoid exposing food to humid, damp conditions when packaging them.
Dry Ice Treatment Instructions
  1. Use approximately one ounce of dry ice per gallon (7 grams per liter) capacity of the container. Do not use dry ice in metal containers of any kind or size because of the potential for inadequate seals or excessive buildup of pressure.
  2. Wear gloves when handling dry ice.
  3. Wipe frost crystals from the dry ice, using a clean, dry towel.
  4. Place the dry ice in the center of the container bottom.
  5. Pour the grain or dry beans on top of the dry ice. Fill the bucket to within one inch (25 mm) of the top.
  6. Place the lid on top of the container and snap it down only about halfway around the container. The partially sealed lid will allow the carbon dioxide gas to escape from the bucket as the dry ice sublimates (changes from a solid to a gas).
  7. Allow the dry ice to sublimate completely before sealing the bucket. Feel the bottom of the container to see if the dry ice is all gone. If the bottom of the container is very cold, dry ice is still present.
  8. Monitor the bucket for a few minutes after sealing the lid. If the bucket or lid bulges, slightly lift the edge of the lid to relieve pressure.
  9. It is normal for the lid of the bucket to pull down slightly as a result of the partial vacuum caused when carbon dioxide is absorbed into the product.
Storage of Plastic Buckets
  • Store plastic buckets off the floor by at least ½ inch (1.3 cm) to allow air to circulate under the bucket.
  • Do not stack plastic buckets over three high. If buckets are stacked, check them periodically to ensure that the lids have not broken from the weight.